Wooden garden furniture stands outside in sun, rain and wind, and you can see it after a few seasons. The wood turns grey, dry or rough, and stains soak in more easily. With the right treatment you keep the warm colour for longer and the wood stays sealed. But what should you choose: oil, stain or varnish? Or do you just let the wood weather to grey? In this guide you'll read what each treatment does, which one suits which type of wood, when and how often to treat, and how to go about it step by step. Along with the manufacturer's maintenance advice for wooden furniture in our range.
In short: for hardwoods such as acacia and teak, oil is the easiest treatment; for softwoods such as spruce and pine, protect them with stain. We advise against varnish for garden furniture. Letting it weather is also an option for durable hardwood. As a guideline, oil once or twice a year, always on clean and completely dry wood. For a new piece of furniture, first follow the manufacturer's advice.
Why should you treat wood?
Wood is alive. After a downpour it absorbs moisture and swells, in the sun it dries out and shrinks again. That is normal, but without protection the wood eventually dries out and small cracks, rough patches or loose joints can appear. UV light also breaks down the top layer, which turns the wood grey. A treatment does three things:
- Keeps moisture out: treated wood absorbs less water, dries faster and is less prone to green algae and mould.
- Holds on to the colour: with oil or stain, the warm wood colour stays visible for longer.
- Prevents stains: a sealed surface soaks up wine, grease and rings less quickly.
Whether it's needed depends on the type of wood. Softwood really does need protection. Durable hardwood such as teak can manage without, but it will turn grey. Treating always starts with a clean piece of furniture: how to do that is explained in cleaning a wooden garden table. We won't repeat that here.
Oil, stain or varnish: the differences
The three products work in very different ways. Oil soaks into the wood, while stain and varnish (partly) sit on top of it.
| Product | What it does | Topping up |
|---|---|---|
| Oil | Soaks in, matt natural look | Easy, no sanding |
| Transparent stain | Thin layer, grain stays visible | Clean, light sanding |
| Opaque stain | Coloured layer, grain disappears | Clean, light sanding |
| Varnish | Hard, sealed film | Tricky, often sand everything |
Oil
Oil penetrates the wood fibres and makes the wood water-repellent, without forming a layer on top. The wood keeps a natural, matt appearance and the grain often becomes slightly deeper in colour. The big advantage: topping up is simple. You clean the furniture and apply a fresh thin coat. The downside is that you need to do it more often than with stain. For garden furniture, use an outdoor oil such as teak oil or a wood protection oil for hardwood. There are also tinted oils that give the wood a colour.
Stain
Stain partly penetrates the wood and forms a thin, breathable layer on top. Transparent stain shows the grain, opaque stain gives the wood an even colour. Stain protects for longer than oil and is the usual choice for softwoods such as spruce and pine. Topping up takes a bit more work: cleaning, light sanding and a new coat.
Varnish
Varnish forms a hard, sealed film. That works well on an indoor door, but garden furniture stands outside and the wood keeps moving. As a result, the varnish can crack; moisture gets underneath and the layer starts to peel. Topping up then often means sanding everything down. That is why we advise against varnish for garden furniture. If you want to give softwood an opaque colour, an opaque stain is the better choice.
Or do you let the wood weather?
Doing nothing is also a choice. Untreated wood outside gradually turns silvery grey. That comes from sun and rain and only affects the top layer: the wood underneath is perfectly sound. For teak and much other durable hardwood, many people actually think the grey looks good.
- Letting it grey suits: teak and durable hardwood, and people who want to spend little time on maintenance.
- Letting it grey does not suit: softwoods such as spruce and pine. They absorb a lot of moisture and deteriorate more quickly without protection.
- What you still need to do: clean once or twice a year, so that no green algae or mould builds up.
Regret the grey? That's usually reversible: clean, let it dry, lightly sand along the grain and then oil. How to clean weathered wood is explained in cleaning a wooden garden table.
Choose one route and stick to it. A piece of furniture that is oiled one year and forgotten the next ends up with patchy grey areas. Better to be completely grey or completely warm than half and half.
Which treatment for which type of wood?
Every type of wood reacts differently to weather and wind. This is the rule of thumb per type:
| Type of wood | Treatment | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Acacia | Oil | Dries out without oil |
| Teak | Oil or let it grey | Choose one route |
| Other hardwood | Oil or let it grey | Hairline cracks when drying out |
| Oak | Oil or transparent stain | No iron: black stains |
| Spruce and pine | Stain | Don't leave untreated |
| Pressure-treated | Stain | Let it dry thoroughly first |
| Vironwood | Nothing, just a soapy wash | Not real wood |
Acacia
Acacia is a hard, sturdy hardwood with a warm colour, and the type of wood you come across most often in our range. It contains less natural oil than teak and therefore dries out more quickly. A regular coat of oil keeps the wood sealed and the colour warm. Small cracks and colour variations are part of acacia outdoors; the product information for the Talara states it plainly: "Small cracks or colour changes are normal in acacia wood outdoors". If your furniture has a white wash finish, use a clear oil and first test what it does to the colour on a hidden spot.
Teak
Teak contains a lot of oil naturally and can therefore stand outside untreated; it then turns silvery grey. If you want to keep the golden-brown colour, oil it or use a teak sealer. You can read the full step-by-step guide, including for teak that has already greyed, in treating teak wood for outdoor use. A table or set made of solid teak is not currently in our range: furniture with "teak" or "teak look" in the name usually has an aluminium frame or a Vironwood top. You can learn how to recognise real teak in what is teak wood.
Other hardwood and oak
Tropical hardwoods such as bankirai and meranti, and European hardwood such as oak, are strong and suitable for outdoor use. You can oil them or let them weather. Hardwood can develop hairline cracks if it dries out quickly; a coat of oil reduces that. Oak contains tannic acid: combined with iron and water, this produces dark stains. So use stainless steel fittings and don't put iron pots on it.
Spruce and pine
Spruce and pine are soft conifers: affordable, light and easy to work, but they absorb a lot of moisture and are more vulnerable to rot and mould. They are often sold pressure-treated, recognisable by a greenish or brown tint. Stain is the best protection here: transparent if you want to see the grain, opaque if you want a colour. Oil soaks away quickly into softwood and then protects for a shorter time. Let newly pressure-treated wood dry thoroughly before staining; the stain packaging will tell you when that is.
Would you rather skip the upkeep?
Do you love the warm look of wood but don't want to oil it every year? Then a Vironwood table top may be an alternative: according to the product information, it is a low-maintenance synthetic material with the look of teak, where a soapy wash is enough. Read what is Vironwood or compare the tops in which wood is best for a garden table.
When and how often should you treat?
The best time is a dry spell in spring, before you start using the furniture again. A second round can be done in late summer, before the wet months begin. Choose a day when the wood is completely dry and no rain is forecast, and avoid working in the strong midday sun.
| Treatment | Guideline | More often if |
|---|---|---|
| Oil | 1 to 2 times a year | Full sun and rain |
| Stain | Every few years, see packaging | Coating becomes dull or thin |
| Letting it grey | Clean 1 to 2 times a year | Shade, under trees |
These are guidelines. The wood itself will tell you when it's time. Do the water test: let a few drops of water fall onto the tabletop or armrest. If they bead up, the protection is still good. If they soak in and the wood darkens, it's time for a fresh coat. A dry, light or rough feel to the surface is also a sign.
A cover saves a treatment
Furniture under a canopy or under a breathable protective cover needs treating less often. You can read tips on covering furniture in covering garden furniture.
Oiling wooden garden furniture in 6 steps
You don't need much, but good preparation makes all the difference:
What you need
- Oil for outdoor wood, such as teak oil or a wood protection oil
- A wide brush or a lint-free cloth
- Fine sandpaper
- Clean, dry cloths to wipe off excess oil
- Masking tape to protect rope, cushions or metal
- Gloves and an old rag or newspaper as a base
Oil seals in dirt and grime, so start with clean furniture. How to do that is explained in cleaning a wooden garden table.
Oil won't soak into damp wood. After cleaning or after rain, wait at least one dry day, and check the joints and the underside too.
If the wood is rough, grey or has stains, sand it lightly with fine sandpaper, always along the grain. Then wipe away the dust thoroughly.
Remove the cushions and tape off rope, metal and other materials. Oil on rope or a cushion cover is hard to get out again.
Work along the grain, board by board, and start at the top. Thin is better than thick: the wood only takes up what it can absorb. Don't forget the end grain and the underside of the legs, as that's where most moisture soaks in.
After the soaking time stated on the packaging, wipe off any oil that hasn't soaked in with a dry cloth. If oil is left sitting, the surface becomes sticky. Then let the furniture dry before using or covering it. On dry, bare wood, a second thin coat may be applied.
Watch out for oily cloths
Cloths soaked in oil, especially linseed oil, can heat up as they dry to the point of spontaneously catching fire. So don't screw them up and throw them in the bin. Leave them spread out to dry outdoors, or store them in a sealed container of water, and follow the warning on the packaging.
If you're dealing with a table top, also have a look at maintaining a wooden table top in 5 steps.
Staining: how to go about it
Staining is similar to oiling, with a few differences:
- Preparation: clean and dry wood, lightly sanded so the stain adheres well. Remove any loose old paint or peeling layers by sanding them off first.
- Application: with a brush, along the length of the boards. Usually apply two or more thin coats and let each one dry as the packaging indicates.
- End grain: give the ends of boards and legs extra attention, as that's where most moisture soaks in.
- Topping up: clean, lightly sand and apply a fresh coat of the same type of stain. Preferably don't mix brands or types without knowing whether they adhere to each other.
Wooden furniture in our range and its maintenance advice
In our range, acacia is the type of wood you come across in garden furniture. The maintenance advice in the product information differs per piece of furniture. Below, it is quoted word for word so you can see what the manufacturer recommends. Loose oil, stain or varnish is not currently in our range; you'll find those at a DIY store or garden centre.
| Furniture | Wood | Manufacturer's advice |
|---|---|---|
| Santos | FSC acacia | Regular wood oil |
| Talara | FSC acacia | Teak oil yearly |
| Ibiza dining chair | Acacia | Oil or wax 1 to 2 times per season |
| Montreal | Acacia | Soapy water, cover |
Santos lounge dining set: FSC acacia with rope
According to the product information, the Santos is made of FSC-certified acacia wood with a white wash finish and taupe rope. The 154 x 90 cm table is made entirely of acacia wood, with a table height of 64 cm. The advice: "Keep your lounge dining set in top condition by regularly treating the acacia wood with a suitable wood oil. Clean the rope with lukewarm water and a soft brush."
Santos lounge dining set 5-piece left
Treatment tip: tape off the rope before you oil the acacia, and clean the rope separately with lukewarm water and a soft brush. You can read more about this in how to maintain rope garden furniture.
Talara lounge set: compact, with yearly advice
According to the product information, the Talara consists of 2 lounge chairs, a round side table with a terrazzo top and 4 cushions. The frame is made of FSC-certified acacia wood in white wash, with taupe rope. The advice: "Treat the acacia wood yearly with teak oil or a wood care product to maintain the colour." According to the product information, you clean the terrazzo top with lukewarm water and a mild cleaning agent, without aggressive or acidic products.
Talara lounge set 3-piece acacia
Ibiza dining chair: oil or wax per season
A wooden dining chair made of acacia wood with a white wash finish and a seat height of 44 cm, with 2 cushions in grey sand. The advice here is the most specific: "Clean the acacia wood regularly with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Rinse with clean water and let it dry thoroughly. Apply a wood protection oil or wax 1 to 2 times per season to nourish the wood and protect it from the weather."
Ibiza dining chair acacia white wash
Montreal tete-a-tete: cleaning and covering
The Montreal is a tete-a-tete garden bench for 2 people, with a frame and table top made of acacia, 146.5 cm long. The advice in the product information doesn't mention oil: "Clean the garden bench regularly with a soft cloth and lukewarm soapy water. Cover the bench with a protective cover during prolonged bad weather." So cleaning and covering are the minimum. If you want to keep the colour warm with oil, ask the shop which product suits the finish.
Montreal tete-a-tete garden bench acacia
Also worth a look:
Santos, right-hand version
View set →
Ibiza lounge-dining corner bench
View set →
Skala chairs acacia, set of 4
View chairs →You can also browse all acacia lounge sets, wooden garden tables, wooden garden chairs and wooden garden benches. Not sure which material suits you? Try the selection tool or read popular wood types for garden furniture.
Common mistakes
Treating damp wood
Oil and stain don't soak into wet wood and actually seal the moisture in. After cleaning or rain, wait until the wood is dry, including in the joints.
Applying too thickly
Whatever the wood doesn't absorb stays behind as a sticky layer that dust and pollen cling to. Apply thin coats and wipe off excess oil.
Oil over varnish or opaque stain
Oil can't get through a sealed layer. If you want to switch, first sand the old layer down to bare wood.
Varnish on garden furniture
Wood that stands outside moves. As a result, varnish can crack and peel, and topping up then means sanding everything. Choose oil or stain.
Forgetting to tape off rope and cushions
Oil on rope or a cushion cover leaves stains that are hard to remove. Take off the cushions and tape off other materials.
Year-round checklist
Tick off what you've already done:
- Spring: clean the furniture and let it dry
- Spring: lightly sand rough or grey patches
- Spring: apply a thin coat of oil or stain to dry wood
- Summer: do the water test on the top and armrests
- Late summer: a second coat of oil if needed
- Autumn: clean and let it dry thoroughly
- Winter: breathable cover or store indoors in a dry place
You can read how to help your wooden furniture get through winter in what to do with garden furniture in winter. How long a wooden table lasts with good maintenance is covered in how long does a wooden garden table last.
Frequently asked questions
What is best for wooden garden furniture: oil, stain or lacquer?
For most garden furniture made from hardwood, such as acacia, teak and eucalyptus, oil is the most practical choice: it soaks into the wood and you can easily refresh it without sanding. Stain suits softwoods such as spruce and pine better. Lacquer forms a hard layer that can crack or peel on furniture left outdoors, and refreshing it then means sanding.
How often should you oil wooden garden furniture?
As a guideline, once or twice a year: in spring and possibly once more in autumn. If the furniture stands in full sun and rain, oil it more often; if it stands under a canopy, less often. Do the water test: if a drop of water still beads on the wood, the layer is still good. If the water soaks in and the wood darkens, it is time for a fresh coat.
Can you leave wooden garden furniture untreated?
With durable hardwoods such as teak and many other hardwoods, you can: the wood gradually turns silver-grey. This is a surface layer, not rot. If you do this, clean the furniture once or twice a year. Softwoods such as spruce and pine are better left untreated only with caution, as they absorb moisture quickly.
Which oil should you use for acacia wood?
An oil suitable for hardwood used outdoors, such as teak oil or a wood protection oil. Always follow the advice for your specific piece first: for the Talara lounge set, the product information recommends teak oil or a wood care product every year, while for the Ibiza dining chair it recommends a wood protection oil or wax, once or twice per season. If your furniture has a white wash finish, test the oil on a hidden spot first.
When is the best time to treat garden furniture?
On a dry day in spring or early autumn, when the wood is completely dry and a few dry days follow. Preferably avoid working in harsh midday sun, as the oil or stain will dry too quickly on the surface. In frost or high humidity it dries poorly; the packaging states the minimum temperature.
Can I apply oil over an old layer of stain or lacquer?
No. Oil needs to soak into the wood, and a layer of lacquer or opaque stain prevents this. If you want to switch to oil, sand the old layer off until you reach bare wood. Conversely, a new coat of stain can usually be applied over an old layer of the same stain, after cleaning and light sanding.
